What's a'matter? You got Bulbs in Your Lawn or Something?
-
Helpful Products from Gardens Alive!
-
Bulbs Alive!™ Fertilizer
This Question of the Week is more of an answer than a question. A recent email from The National Garden Bureau (they're the ones who choose the annual All-America Selections) reminded me of a great gardening trick that I haven't spoken about in a long time: Spring bulbs in your lawn. (Which a listener did ask about recently but I lost the email (and my wallet, my keys, my mind...)
During a Springtime visit to the Netherlands many years ago (where I was tasked with helping growers organically deal with the disease problems affecting their massive bulb fields), I learned of the concept of planting what were then called 'minor bulbs' in lawns in the Fall (like now). They're no longer called 'minor' bulbs. Their new collective name is now 'special bulbs' (because it's a better marketing name than minor; and because they are special).
'Regular' Spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils are deliberately planted in groups to rescue us from the month of March with their bright colors. In this technique, 'Special' little bulbs are instead 'naturalized' to pop up in random places in lawns and then disappear, softening the image of lawns as evil monocultures--and providing food for the very first native bees and other pollinators to emerge; a time when there isn't much else blooming for them.
Or, as the NGB puts it, "By planting an assortment of small, very early flowering bulbs in your yard this fall, springtime will come sooner with a bright burst of flowers." Bonus: Most bulbs in their interplanting suggestions are squirrel, rodent, and deer resistant!
Quoth the NGB: "Bulb lawns are not for highly maintained lawns that use lots of nitrogen-based fertilizer or weed killers and pesticides. (I pause here to thank them for the reminder that lawns don't need chemicals of any kind; just proper care, which we'll dive into in more depth in the Spring.) Thay add that "Sparse lawns under deciduous trees, are perfect."
"Your bulb lawn will need to be mowed a few weeks later than usual, to allow time for the bulb foliage to collect the sunlight it needs to come back year after year. (As with all Spring bulbs, you must allow the greenery to fade away naturally. Just be patient; and recognize that your lawn will be growing VERY slowly as it comes out of winter dormancy, and won't need cutting for a while. The NGB also advises putting down some bulb fertilizer after the bulbs finish blooming. To which I heartily agree; never feed bulbs at planting time.
Their list of appropriate bulbs is surprisingly long:
Anemone blanda, aka Grecian windflower
Glory-of-the-snow
Crocus
Winter aconite
Galanthus, aka snowdrop
Spring starflower
Iris reticulata aka dwarf iris
Grape hyacinths
Mini Daffodils
Striped squill, and
Tulipa sylvestris, the woodland Tulip
Their planting recommendations include:
"Choose a low-traffic area; Most of these bulbs will thrive in full sun but also tolerate partial shade.
Plant your bulbs under trees and shrubs; they'll bloom before the foliage leaf's out.
Bulbs prefer average soil with a neutral pH.
The soil must be well-drained. No standing water.
They continue with recommended planting times for each USDA Growing Zone:
Basically, Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall, before the first frost; and absolutely before the ground freezes hard. That's:
September to October in Zones 4 and 5 (these are the coldest growing zones, with the least available growing time during the season. If you live in such a zone and want to try this now, buy and install the bulbs right away--and maybe hope for an Indian Summer).
October to early November in Zones 6 and 7 (these zones account for the vast majority of us, and I have always advised planting Spring bulbs of all kinds after Halloween but before Thanksgiving in these zones. Unlike garlic, which benefits from longer time in the ground, the rule for Spring bulbs is to wait until the correct time frame, as bulbs planted too early in the season can sprout prematurely and then freeze, greatly lessening the chance of them putting on a show the following Spring. With luck, however, they will reacclimate themselves and bloom at the right time in seasons to come. Oh, and early planting can leave the bulbs vulnerable to rot, from which there is no recovery.
November to early December in Zones 8 and 9. I know the NGB lists these planting dates, but planting bulbs in these higher and warmer USDA growing zones can be especially tricky. Visit your local state Extension Office for specific times--and preferred varieties--in your area.
Late December to early January is their recommended planting time for Zone 10, which is a small tropical portion of the US, where planting Spring bulbs is rare. Again, consult your state Extension's website to see if any of these bulbs are truly viable in your area.
And finally, some species may not be still available at this time of year. But any kind of Spring bulb you find should be offered at a steep discount. Same for trees and shrubs.
Portions of this article were provided as an educational/inspirational service of the National Garden Bureau." It was written by NGB member 'Flowerbud' in the UK.
During a Springtime visit to the Netherlands many years ago (where I was tasked with helping growers organically deal with the disease problems affecting their massive bulb fields), I learned of the concept of planting what were then called 'minor bulbs' in lawns in the Fall (like now). They're no longer called 'minor' bulbs. Their new collective name is now 'special bulbs' (because it's a better marketing name than minor; and because they are special).
'Regular' Spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils are deliberately planted in groups to rescue us from the month of March with their bright colors. In this technique, 'Special' little bulbs are instead 'naturalized' to pop up in random places in lawns and then disappear, softening the image of lawns as evil monocultures--and providing food for the very first native bees and other pollinators to emerge; a time when there isn't much else blooming for them.
Or, as the NGB puts it, "By planting an assortment of small, very early flowering bulbs in your yard this fall, springtime will come sooner with a bright burst of flowers." Bonus: Most bulbs in their interplanting suggestions are squirrel, rodent, and deer resistant!
Quoth the NGB: "Bulb lawns are not for highly maintained lawns that use lots of nitrogen-based fertilizer or weed killers and pesticides. (I pause here to thank them for the reminder that lawns don't need chemicals of any kind; just proper care, which we'll dive into in more depth in the Spring.) Thay add that "Sparse lawns under deciduous trees, are perfect."
"Your bulb lawn will need to be mowed a few weeks later than usual, to allow time for the bulb foliage to collect the sunlight it needs to come back year after year. (As with all Spring bulbs, you must allow the greenery to fade away naturally. Just be patient; and recognize that your lawn will be growing VERY slowly as it comes out of winter dormancy, and won't need cutting for a while. The NGB also advises putting down some bulb fertilizer after the bulbs finish blooming. To which I heartily agree; never feed bulbs at planting time.
Their list of appropriate bulbs is surprisingly long:
Anemone blanda, aka Grecian windflower
Glory-of-the-snow
Crocus
Winter aconite
Galanthus, aka snowdrop
Spring starflower
Iris reticulata aka dwarf iris
Grape hyacinths
Mini Daffodils
Striped squill, and
Tulipa sylvestris, the woodland Tulip
Their planting recommendations include:
"Choose a low-traffic area; Most of these bulbs will thrive in full sun but also tolerate partial shade.
Plant your bulbs under trees and shrubs; they'll bloom before the foliage leaf's out.
Bulbs prefer average soil with a neutral pH.
The soil must be well-drained. No standing water.
They continue with recommended planting times for each USDA Growing Zone:
Basically, Spring-flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall, before the first frost; and absolutely before the ground freezes hard. That's:
September to October in Zones 4 and 5 (these are the coldest growing zones, with the least available growing time during the season. If you live in such a zone and want to try this now, buy and install the bulbs right away--and maybe hope for an Indian Summer).
October to early November in Zones 6 and 7 (these zones account for the vast majority of us, and I have always advised planting Spring bulbs of all kinds after Halloween but before Thanksgiving in these zones. Unlike garlic, which benefits from longer time in the ground, the rule for Spring bulbs is to wait until the correct time frame, as bulbs planted too early in the season can sprout prematurely and then freeze, greatly lessening the chance of them putting on a show the following Spring. With luck, however, they will reacclimate themselves and bloom at the right time in seasons to come. Oh, and early planting can leave the bulbs vulnerable to rot, from which there is no recovery.
November to early December in Zones 8 and 9. I know the NGB lists these planting dates, but planting bulbs in these higher and warmer USDA growing zones can be especially tricky. Visit your local state Extension Office for specific times--and preferred varieties--in your area.
Late December to early January is their recommended planting time for Zone 10, which is a small tropical portion of the US, where planting Spring bulbs is rare. Again, consult your state Extension's website to see if any of these bulbs are truly viable in your area.
And finally, some species may not be still available at this time of year. But any kind of Spring bulb you find should be offered at a steep discount. Same for trees and shrubs.
Portions of this article were provided as an educational/inspirational service of the National Garden Bureau." It was written by NGB member 'Flowerbud' in the UK.
-
Helpful Products from Gardens Alive!
-
Bulbs Alive!™ Fertilizer